Insulation

Abode Heating & Insulation supplies and installs insulation in the home to the highest standard and in accordance with best practice. For over ten years we have installed insulation into thousands of Hawkes Bay residental and tenanted homes.   Contact us for a home assessment.

 

Why Insulate? 

Heating the home is more efficient

  • Savings on your heating bill.

  • Reduction in heat loss.

  • Increased coverage of area heated.

  • Insulation is about keeping the heat in - not about keeping the cold out.

 Healthier home 

  • Reduction in condensation and mould in the home.

  • Less sickness and doctor visits.

  • Reduce roof heat radiating into the home during Summer.

 Adding value to your home

  • Insulation is in the top three requirements for new homebuyers and tenants.

  • Your home is generally the most expensive asset we will ever own - insulating your home is investing in its longevity.

  • Has acoustic properties, which assist in reducing outside noise, eg rain on the roof, vehicle noise.

Insulation Products

What is important to note is the “R value” of the insulation product.  All insulation products have one.  The higher the R value - the more effective the product is at insulating.  For example, a R1.8 product is 28% more effective than a R1.4 product. 

The more loft in the product the better the insulator the product is.  The more dense the product the less effective it is as an insulator.  eg glass vs thermal backed drapes, aluminium vs wooden joinery.

The job of the insulation is to keep the heat you are producing in the home, rather than keeping the cold out of the home.  

Ceiling Insulation

  • In the ceiling we can use either a glasswool or polyester insulation product.  Both of these products carry a 50 year warranty.
  • If the existing insulation in the ceiling is less than 120mm we can add a full layer of insulation at least 150mm thick.
  • Change recessed downlights for LEDs so you can insulate over the light fitting.
  • The Building Code in New Zealand requires insulation in new housing to be between 150-175mm thick or R3.2 to R3.6.

Underfloor Insulation

Under wooden floors we use a insulation blanket which is slightly wider than the joists and sits flush under the floorboards and is firmly stapled to the sides of the floor joists.  

As air movement over insulation draws heat out of the product, reducing its efficiency, we use Knauf Underfloor Insulation which has a unique "windwash" barrier affixed to underside of the insulation which reduces heat contained in the insulation being drawn out

Although we can install the minimum required underfloor insulation of R1.3, we recommend installing a higher R value of R1.8 as we believe  "Do it once do it well".

Our clients notice the greatest improvement to comfort levels once the underfloor insulation has been installed.

 

Wall Insulation     

We do not currently offer a blow in wall insulation product.  Best practice is to well insulate walls at the time of construction or whenever you strip wall linings.  The minimum requirement is R2.2 but you can go as high as R2.8 for a 90mm wall cavity

Due to the difficulty and cost of retrofitting insulation into wall cavities, and as windows take up a large percentage of many exterior walls in homes, it may be more cost effective and an easy fix to have good thermal backed drapes going past the window framing, rather than retrofit insulation.

Polythene Ground Sheet/Vapour Barrier

  • Recommended by BRANZ
  • Recommended for concrete ring foundations with small vent openings.
  • Recommended if the ground under the home smudges on your skin.
  • Protects subfloor framing from rising moisture.
  • Deters insects due to drier conditions eg Borer.

Common Misconceptions

  • That carpet is a good insulator - while it can reduce draughts it is not an effective insulator.
  • Pinex ceilings are not an effective form of insulation.  The more dense a product is - the less effective it is at insulating. 
  • "I will only insulate the bedrooms and lounge." - As the ceiling space and underfloor are shared with the rest of the home, heat is drawn out of the insulated room through door openngs and out the uninsulated roof/walls/underfloor into uninsulated unheated rooms.  Consequently cool air (draughts) are drawn into the heated room to replace the warm air which has been drawn out.  Leaving any part of the ceiling or underfloor uninsulated is like having a hole in a bucket - not as effective as a bucket with no hole.
  • "I won't need heating as my home is insulated" - Insulation alone will not heat your home, however once you have insulated your home the heating source will be more efficient.  An analogy we use a lot is that your bed is still cold when you get into it despite a duvet - you are the heater and your body heat is trapped by the mattress and duvet.

Other Insulating Tips for the Homeowner Can Do

  • Exceed minimum insulation levels. 
  • Draughtproofing is very effective at improving the comfort levels in your home, eg door and window seals and weather strips on external doors.
  • A hot water cylinder wrap will result in less heat loss.
  • If you have a garage adjoinined to the house (integral), considered insulating the ceiling to reduce the summer roof space heat radiating into the garage and through the internal door into the house.  On a hot summer day, the rood space heat can get to 50 degrees.

Finance the cost of insulating your home with the HB Regional Council from as little as $28pm*

  

WE CAN INSULATE YOUR HOME IN A DAY FROM AS LITTLE AS $2,500*

*Based on 100m2 ceiling and underfloor.

 

 

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